Nothing is as ephemeral or as potetially banal as summer squash. As a teenage cook, working in not-so-fine-dining restaurants on this island I cooked a lot of zucchini every summer. I think the chef I worked for chose zucchini as our perpetual “vegetable of the day” because it was inexpensive and easy to cook. Trucked in from California, it was sort of fresh, and by that I mean it wasn’t frozen and it wasn’t canned. And we certainly didn’t show it a lot of love: We would make up a mixture of sauteed red onion, canned tomato and “Italian seasoning” and saute it all up together. Zucchini came to represent to me the thing you put on a plate because you had a space to fill, the thing that you gave to your guest because you hadn’t thought about it very hard or because you didn’t know what else to do or because you thought it was good enough.
I hated zucchini by the time I was 18. (more…)