December 28, 2011 by Vincent Nattress

We took our kids down to the city for a Boxing Day movie and to take in the bright lights. We really don’t get off-island that often, at least not down to the Big Smoke of Seattle. We find our needs met here and I don’t miss having to actually wait to cross the street because there are cars. I live in a town where there is one cross walk signal, and that is for crossing the “highway”. That said, it was nice to see the reaction of my daughters to the sights and sounds of the city at night, and they throughly enjoyed Arthur Christmas 3D.
Strangely enough the big disappointment of the trip was Starbucks. We took a little walk after dinner, circling the area around Westlake Center, and in a ridiculously small area we saw five Starbucks. I know it is an old joke by now, but when you can stand on the corner of 7th and Olive Way in Seattle you will find that there are literally 5 Starbucks within a one block radius. Continue Reading »
Posted in Locavore | 5 Comments »
December 29, 2010 by Vincent Nattress

Clockwise from right: Amaracana, Buff Orpington, Black Giant and the first Narragansett Turkey egg
I was looking for a book on poultry health care so I checked Poultry Health and Management by David Sainsbury out from the library. When I got it home, it turned out to be a book about commercial poultry production, and it had pretty much nothing in it dealing with our sort of farm. It did have a some very interesting data however, like this chart which the author offers in the introduction. Continue Reading »
Posted in Food History, Food Politics, Food Theory, Locavore, Poultry | Tagged capitalism, Chicken, Eggs, free range, hybridization, poultry | Leave a Comment »
December 27, 2010 by Vincent Nattress
There has been a lot of discussion on FaceBook about two recent recalls of artisan cheese, one by Bravo Farms in California’s Central Valley and the other, perhaps more serious, by Sally Jackson Cheeses of Oroville, Washington. Bravo Farms, which produces my favorite California Cheddar, “Silver Mountain”, is not tiny, but is small by any modern standard of a food production plant. Bravo suffered a recall when the California Department of Food and Agriculture found both Listeria monocytogenes and E.Coli O157:H7 at their plant. Cheeses were recalled even though, to date, no one has been confirmed to have gotten ill from eating their cheese. The later FDA report of Bravo shows twelve separate dates when a team of three inspectors visited Bravo over a 26 day period and found numerous – though I must say rather minor – violations. Sally Jackson Cheeses has a far more serious problem, because their cheeses have sickened at least 8 people with the very serious E.Coli O157:H7. As is evidences by both the photos on Jackson’s web site and the descriptions of the facilities in the FDA report, this is a tiny, ill-equipped “Mom & Pop” operation. The FDA report is rather shocking in the number and nature of violations for which Jackson was cited. Continue Reading »
Posted in Food History, Food Politics, Food Theory, Locavore | Tagged Bravo, CDFA, cheese, E. Coli 0157:H7, FDA, Pollan, recall, Salitan, Sally Jackson Cheeses | 2 Comments »
December 9, 2010 by Vincent Nattress

The array of eggs from our hens, from blue-green to white and cafe brown.
I had to do something this week that is thoroughly depressing and demoralizing: I had to buy eggs. Now that might not sound like such a big deal to many of you, but you have to understand that I have 21 chickens and 12 turkeys on my payroll and I do expect something in return for providing them with food, water and keeping the eagles and raccoons at bay. Since the cold snap, however, and with the number of hours of daylight having dwindled to a precious few, the chickens have just plain stopped laying. Each time I go to the coop and open the door to the laying boxes and look in with eyes full of hopeful anticipation I find a hen staring back at me with a look on her little chicken face that can only mean “It’s cold and dark out here. If you want eggs, you lay them!” Continue Reading »
Posted in Food History, Food Politics, Food Theory, Locavore, Poultry | Tagged Chicken, Food, Food Politics, Locavore | 8 Comments »
November 25, 2010 by Vincent Nattress
Here is a video of the four remaining Narragansett Turkeys we have here at our home on Whidbey Island. We got a dusting of snow and the temperatures have been below freezing for several days, but the turkeys are unfazed. So what? Well, 99.9% of all turkeys produced for food in the world are not heritage breeds like these birds, they are one particular hybrid breed called broad breasted white, and those birds would be turkeycicles under conditions like these. The Narragansetts have the option of hanging out in their coop with a heat lamp, but they choose to forage and frolic and play in the snow. They are just more vigorous and healthy than the hybrids. Continue Reading »
Posted in Food History, Food Politics, Food Theory, Locavore, Poultry | Tagged Food, Food Politics, Locavore, Thanksgiving, Turkey | 4 Comments »
November 24, 2010 by Vincent Nattress

Seasoning the legs and wings, prior to pressing.
Late night, last night I pulled out the two turkeys I had harvested on Saturday and started preparing them for thanksgiving. The thing that was so striking about them was how beautiful the birds are. I have prepared heritage birds for a number of years, but those came from other producers. As a result they had been killed a couple of weeks prior to Thanksgiving and arrived to me sealed in plastic. While they were perfectly fine, and certainly better than frozen, commercial birds, nothing benefits from being sealed in a bag for a couple of weeks. Continue Reading »
Posted in Food Theory, Locavore, Poultry, Recipes | Tagged Food, Locavore, Recipes, Thanksgiving, Turkey | 3 Comments »
November 22, 2010 by Vincent Nattress

The final product: Two young Narragansett hens that dressed out to almost 10 pounds each.
My family is about five months into our first efforts at raising turkeys for our own table. An experienced farmers of heritage breed turkeys might be thinking something is a little wrong with my math because these turkeys take 30 weeks to reach maturity. Ours hatched out on June 5th, so that puts them squarely at the 24 week mark. Nonetheless, Thanksgiving is Thursday and we had to make a decision: kill ours or find some one else’s to buy. Continue Reading »
Posted in Food History, Food Politics, Food Theory, Locavore, Poultry | Tagged Food, Food Politics, Locavore, Thanksgiving | 2 Comments »
November 18, 2010 by Vincent Nattress

Our 2010 crop of Narragansett Turkeys, the oldest breed of turkey there is.
While I have been buying Heritage Breed turkeys for the past eight years, this is the first time that they are making the very short trip from our back lawn to the oven, never having left our sight. We got a bit of a late start, the birds having hatched out in the first week of June, so we will be culling two of the smaller hens rather than the big toms, which we will retain for breeding next years crop. Continue Reading »
Posted in Food History, Food Politics, Food Theory, Locavore, Poultry, Recipes | Tagged Food, Locavore, Recipes, Thanksgiving | Leave a Comment »
May 26, 2010 by Vincent Nattress

My newly completed Hoop House will be, I hope, the cure to the tomato-less summer blues.
If you have read this blog in the past I’m sure I do not need to tell you that I love Western Washington in general, and Whidbey Island specifically. The beauty of this geographic region is ideal to me. I love the fishing, clamming, crabbing and other foraging opportunities that this area alone has. The access to calm, inland waters is unsurpassed. And the climate is pretty much perfect in my mind. It is never much over the mid-70′s in the peak of summer, which is perfect for someone who’s family originated in the bogs of Ireland and Scotland. I start to wilt when the mercury climbs much above 90. I really cannot take the heat.
The one thing that has been killing me about this place is that unlike me tomatoes love heat and I love tomatoes. I have grown accustomed to a certain level of quality from my tomatoes, especially after spending the past 16 years in Napa Valley where, in my opinion, the quality of the tomatoes is at least as high as the quality of the wines. Western Washington just isn’t tomato country; it’s too cold. Case in point, last summer a good friend of mine, who also grew up here, came up to the island for the weekend. He and his very cool family come up many weekends in the season which means my family and I get a chance to hang with them quite a bit, which is a particular treat because Chuck is a great cook. Anyway, on this particular weekend he brought up a harvest of tomatoes from his garden in Seattle. He says to me “Hey, I brought up our tomatoes, check them out, they are in a bowl on the counter in the kitchen.” So, with visions a huge salad bowl brimming with ripe, pound-and-a-half Marvel Stripe and Brandywine tomatoes dancing through my mind I practically ran to the kitchen… where I found a little cereal bowl with about a dozen tomatoes in it, the biggest of which is smaller than a tennis ball. I know that he was trying, but for the love of God, this is simply not acceptable. Continue Reading »
Posted in Farmers' Markets, Food Theory, Locavore | 5 Comments »
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